Tropical Fruit: Mangosteen, the queen of fruit in Indonesia, is the sensation at the Hilo Farmers Market on the Big Island. Mangosteen's elegant purple skin and soft, white, floral-flavored flesh (like litchi, but more custardlike than translucent) make this fruit a sure winner. It joins the ranks of rambutan, durian, sapote, sapodilla, and other exotic Asian newcomers. These fruits are not generally available in supermarkets yet, but they will occasionally appear in Honolulu's Chinatown and at neighbor-island green markets. The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring and summer. Hayden mangoes are universally loved for their plump, juicy flesh and brilliant skins. White Piries, with their resinous flavor and fine, fiberless flesh, are even better; this rare and ambrosial variety can be found in Honolulu's Chinatown or at roadside fruit stands in rural Oahu. Watch for the Rapoza, a new species of large, sweet, fiberless mango, introduced to Hawaii several years ago. Papaya lovers, take note: Kahuku papayas -- firm, fleshy, dark orange, and so juicy they sometimes squirt -- are the ones to watch for on menus and in markets; check out the roadside stands in Kahuku on Oahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrise papayas from Kapoho and Kauai are also top-notch. White, acid-free, extra sweet, and grown on Kauai and the Big Island, Sugarloaf pineapples are the new rage. Hilo is the town for litchis (also known as lychees) in summer, but Honolulu's Chinatown markets carry them, too. Decidedly Hawaiian are Ka'u oranges, grown in the volcanic soil of the southern Big Island and available in supermarkets and health-food stores. Don't be fooled by their brown, ugly skin -- they're juicy, thin-skinned, and sweet as honey.

Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, pho, pasta, chow mein -- Hawaii is the epicenter of ethnic noodle stands and houses, with many recommendable and inexpensive choices. Jimbo's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/947-2211), a neighborhood staple, is tops for freshly made udon with generous toppings and a homemade broth. On the neighbor islands, noodle-mania prevails at Hamura's Saimin Stand (Kauai; tel. 808/245-3271), where saimin and teriyaki sticks have replaced hamburgers and pizza as the late-night, comfort-food tradition. Nori's Saimin & Snacks (Big Island; tel. 808/935-9133) is charming Hilo's secret for consummate saimin of every stripe. And, of course, Oodles of Noodles (Big Island; tel. 808/329-9222) remains the epitome of noodle heaven.

Plate Lunches: For seasoned plate lunchers who favor the traditional "two scoop rice" lunches weighted with carbohydrates and hefty meats, Zippy's (21 locations throughout Oahu; call tel. 808/973-0880 for the one nearest you) is a household word. Other favorite plate-lunch spots on Oahu include Kakaako Kitchen (tel. 808/596-7488), Ward Centre, serving dinner at indoor and outdoor tables; I [heart symbol] Country Cafe (tel. 808/596-8108); and Yama's Fish Market (tel. 808/941-9994), where the chocolate/macadamia nut cookies and chocolate biscotti have legions of fans. On Maui, Pauwela Cafe (tel. 808/575-9242) serves gourmet feasts from a tiny kitchen, including the best smoked turkey sandwich in the world, while Aloha Mixed Plate (tel. 808/661-3322) lets you nosh on fabulous shoyu chicken at ocean's edge -- and with a mai tai, too. On Kauai, Pono Market (tel. 808/822-4581), Fish Express (tel. 808/245-9918), and Koloa Fish Market (tel. 808/742-6199) are at the top of the plate-lunch pyramid.

Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave ice is synonymous with Haleiwa, the North Shore Oahu town where Matsumoto Shave Ice (tel. 808/637-4827) and neighboring Aoki's (no phone) serve mounds of icy treats to long lines of thirsty takers. This tasty and refreshing cultural phenomenon is even better over ice cream and adzuki beans.

Other Mighty Morsels: Poi biscotti from the Poi Company, available at supermarkets and gourmet outlets such as Hawaii Regional Cuisine Marketplace (in Liberty House Ala Moana), is a new taste treat, the consummate accompaniment to another island phenomenon, Kona coffee. Coffee growers of highest esteem (all based on the Big Island, of course), include: Rooster Farms (tel. 808/328-9173), which sells and ships only organic coffees; Bong Brothers (tel. 808/328-9289); Kona Blue Sky Coffee (tel. 808/322-1700); Langenstein Farm (tel. 808/328-8356); and Holualoa Kona Coffee Company (tel. 800/334-0348).

The buttery, chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies of Big Island Candies (Big Island; tel. 808/935-8890) are worth every calorie and every dollar. If you're going through Waimea, don't miss Cook's Discoveries (Big Island; tel. 808/885-3633), where superlatives never end -- the best cookies, preserves, vinegars, poi, and many other marvelous taste treats, as well as Hawaiian gift items. From Kauai, Hanapepe town's venerable Taro Ko chips (tel. 808/335-5586 for the factory) are the crunchy snack neighbor islanders drive long miles to find, then cart home in hand-carried bundles. Finally, whether it's takeout stuffed oysters, grilled vegetables, caviar, or designer olive oil you're after, Honolulu's Strawberry Connection of Hawaii (tel. 808/521-9777) will reward your search; it's paradise for foodies, chefs, aspiring chefs, and those in pursuit of the best in Hawaii food products.